ircle at
the top. The first circle just above the base wire should be of the same
size. Keep all wire laps at the back. The other two circles will
conform to the shape of the crown and will be found to be a little
further apart at the front and back than at the sides.

TO FINISH THE BASE OF THE CROWN--

The spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base
wire is to be fastened and finished off the same as the edge wire on the
brim.

A SHAPED WIRE FRAME MADE IN ONE PIECE--

The simplest wire frame which is shaped at all is the mushroom shape or
one that droops a little. Before beginning this hat it will be found
easier to have a pattern for the brim, but it will not be necessary to
make a pattern for the crown, which may be either round or square, and
for which directions have already been given.

PATTERN FOR BRIM--

Make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the same as for a fabric
shape, following the same directions. It may droop only a very little or
fit quite close. In either case the method is the same.

Pin the headsize wire on this pattern and try on to shape. Mark on the
wire at the point where the creases touch the wire. It is important not
to hurry at this point. Make many patterns and then choose the most
becoming one. After the pattern is perfected, crease it sharply the same
as in the sailor brim. Take all the measurements from this pattern and
use them in marking the wires. This brim pattern is not needed until the
crown has been made. In making a wire frame in one piece, we begin at
the top of the crown and work down.

CROWN--

Measure four sticks as for the crown in the preceding lesson, plus the
width of the brim, plus six inches for finishing. This is ample to
finish both ends of wire, but on account of the ends easily becoming
frayed it is better to have a generous allowance. Begin at the crown tip
and work down until ready for the headsize wire. The last wire is or
should be of the same size as the regular headsize wire. Place the lap
of the headsize wire on the back spoke of the crown and join by twisting
the spokes once and a half around. Join the front and remaining spokes
in the same way, being careful to join where the wire was marked at the
creases on the pattern.

BRIM--

We are now ready to make use of the measurements taken from the pattern.
Mark the length of each spoke with a pencil; the distance they are to be
apart should be marked on the edge