Do not use glue on satin, or on any fabric
thinner than velvet, or on any frame other than buckram. Care should
always be taken to have the smooth side of the buckram on top when the
velvet is to be glued on.

After fitting the velvet carefully and sewing the seam in the back,
remove the pins from the outer edge and gather the velvet up inside the
headsize where it is to be held while the glue is being spread on the
buckram. The glue must be spread very evenly. It will make a neater job
to glue the seam of the velvet open before going further. Be very
careful to keep the glue away from the right side of the velvet. Next,
rub the glue on the frame with a stiff brush until it is smooth, then
spread the velvet back into place, pressing and smoothing it with the
hands from the headsize wire out. Watch it carefully for any places
which have not sufficient glue, as the material may be raised before it
is dry and more glue added. Do not sew the edge until the glue has
dried. Usually it is only the material on the upper side of the brim
which needs gluing down. The facing may be put on as desired. Sometimes
the top of a crown has indentations, and then the velvet may be glued to
stay in place.

The under or outer facing may be fitted to a rolled or close-fitting
brim more easily than the upper. Beginning at the front with the corner
of the material, pin at the edge and at the headsize wire. Keep the
material smooth; work from right to left, and then from left to right.
Work the material around to where the seam is to be made. Cut away all
superfluous material, allowing three-eighths of an inch for a seam.
Slipstitch together as on the top and finish the edge over wire.
Whenever possible a seam should be made on the straight of the material.

A SHIRRED CROWN OF FABRIC--

There are two methods of making a shirred crown of fabric in which
taffeta, satin, georgette, or velvet may be used. Velvet is especially
beautiful made up in this way. The first method is the preferred. Cut a
circular piece of material, having a diameter the length of the crown
from front to back, measuring over the top from the headsize wire, plus
four inches.

On the wrong side of the material mark circles (concentric) one-half
inch apart, after first having marked a circle in the center about three
inches in diameter. Gather on the line of each circle with a fine
running stitch and bring the thread through to the right side as each
circle is complete