he operation of rubbing the hat with the nap
until it is restored to its original freshness. The crown must be packed
with cloth before rubbing to keep it solid enough to do satisfactory
work. If the brim of a felt or beaver hat needs cutting down at the
edge, mark with a piece of chalk where the brim is to be cut. Sew on
this line with an unthreaded sewing machine several times, and the felt
will be cut through and the edge broken off at this point. This looks
much better than when cut with shears or with a knife.

RENOVATION OF HAT COVERINGS AND LININGS--

To freshen velvet and raise the pile, brush well to remove the dust.
With the wrong side down, hold it over the spout of a tea-kettle of
rapidly boiling water. An assistant is needed to brush it lightly as it
is passed back and forth over the steam. The great force of the steam
will raise the pile much more quickly than the method of using a damp
cloth over a hot iron. If the velvet after steaming is found to be still
too imperfect or faded to be used on the hat plain, it may be gathered a
half inch apart or more and used either on the crown or the brim, or it
may be mirrored by ironing on the right side with a hot iron, always
ironing lightly one way, using a sweeping motion. Do not let the iron
rest for a second on the material or it will leave a mark.

TO FRESHEN CREPE FOR MOURNING MILLINERY--

Brush the crepe with a fine brush to remove the dust. Clean in gasoline
if necessary. Crepe may be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly
and evenly on a padded surface, a damp cloth placed over it, then a hot
iron passed over it without touching it, but near enough so that a
slight amount of steam will dampen the crepe. Remove the cloth and allow
the crepe to dry in place. Crepe becomes shabby-looking quickly if not
given the best of care.

CLEANING, CURLING, AND TINTING FEATHERS--

To clean, immerse the feather in gasoline to which has been added a few
spoonfuls of cornmeal. Draw the feather through the hands several times
until it is clean; rinse in clear gasoline and shake in the fresh air
till dry. A very light-colored or white feather may be tinted by
dissolving some oil paint in the gasoline used for rinsing.

To curl, draw the flues, a very few at a time, over a blunt knife. A
plume is rather difficult to sew on a hat and produce the desired
effect. The end of the quill may be sewed very firmly to the hat, while
the tip of the plume should not b