ocolate a more mellow and finished confection, having more or
less the velvet feel of _chocolat fondant_.

(_e_) _Flavouring._

Art is shown not only in the choice of the cacao beans but also in the
selection of spices and essences, for, whilst the fundamental flavour of
a chocolate is determined by the blend of beans and the method of
manufacture, the piquancy and special character are often obtained by
the addition of minute quantities of flavourings. The point in the
manufacture at which the flavour is added is as late as possible so as
to avoid the possible loss of aroma in handling. The flavours used
include cardamom, cassia, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, lemon, mace, and
last but most popular of all, the vanilla pod or vanillin. Some makers
use the choice spices themselves, others prefer their essential oils.
Many other nutty, fragrant and aromatic substances have been used; of
these we may mention almonds, coffee, musk, ambergris, gum benzoin and
balsam of Peru. The English like delicately flavoured confections,
whilst the Spanish follow the old custom of heavily spicing the
chocolate. In ancient recipes we read of the use of white and red
peppers, and the addition of hot spices was defended and even
recommended on purely philosophical grounds. It was given, in the
strange jargon of the Peripatetics, as a dictum that chocolate is by
nature cold and dry and therefore ought to be mixed with things which
are hot.

[Illustration: "CONCHE" MACHINES.
Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Willesden.]

[Illustration: SECTION THROUGH "CONCHE" MACHINE.]

[Illustration: MACHINES FOR MIXING OR "CONCHING" CHOCOLATE.]

(_f_) _Moulding._

Small quantities of cacao butter will have been added to the chocolate
at various stages, and hence the finished product is quite plastic. It
is now brought from the hot room (or the _melangeur_ or the conche) to
the moulding rooms. Before moulding, the chocolate is passed through a
machine, known as a compressor, which removes air-bubbles. This is a
necessary process, as people would not care to purchase chocolate full
of holes. As in the previous operations, every effort has been made to
produce a chocolate of smooth texture and fine flavour, so in the
moulding rooms skill is exercised in converting the plastic mass into
hard bars and cakes, which snap when broken and which have a pleasant
appearance. Well-moulded chocolate has a good gloss, a rich colour and a
cor