loud voice read a prayer which lasted more than half an
hour. With this the ceremony within the church was concluded, and the
coffin was carried round the church to the grave, followed by the priest
and the rest of the company. This grave was deeper than any I had ever
seen. When the coffin had been lowered, the priest threw three handfuls
of earth upon it, but none of the mourners followed his example. Among
the earth which had been dug out of the grave I noticed four skulls,
several human bones, and a board of a former coffin. These were all
thrown in again upon the coffin, and the grave filled in presence of the
priest and the people. One man trod the soil firm, then a little mound
was made and covered with grass-plots which were lying ready. The whole
business was completed with miraculous speed.

The little town of Skalholt, my station this night, was once as
celebrated in religious matters as Thingvalla had been politically
famous. Here, soon after the introduction of Christianity, the first
bishopric was founded in 1098, and the church is said to have been one of
the largest and richest. Now Skalholt is a miserable place, and consists
of three or four cottages, and a wretched wooden church, which may
perhaps contain a hundred persons; it has not even its own priest, but
belongs to Thorfastadir.

My first business on arriving was to inspect the yet remaining relics of
past ages. First I was shewn an oil-picture which hangs in the church,
and is said to represent the first bishop of Skalholt, Thorlakur, who was
worshipped almost as a saint for his strict and pious life.

After this, preparations were made to clear away the steps of the altar
and several boards of the flooring. I stood expectantly looking on,
thinking that I should now have to descend into a vault to inspect the
embalmed body of the bishop. I must confess this prospect was not the
most agreeable, when I thought of the approaching night which I should
have to spend in this church, perhaps immediately over the grave of the
old skeleton. I had besides already had too much to do with the dead for
one day, and could not rid myself of the unpleasant grave-odour which I
had imbibed in Thorfastadir, and which seemed to cling to my dress and my
nose. {41} I was therefore not a little pleased when, instead of the
dreaded vault and mummy, I was only shewn a marble slab, on which were
inscribed the usual notifications of the birth, death, &c. of