chief
station of my Icelandic journey, the town of Reikjavik.

The whole country between Reikum and Reikjavik, a distance of 45 to 50
miles, is, for the most part, uninhabited. Here and there, in the fields
of lava, stand little pyramids of the same substance, which serve as
landmarks; and there are two houses built for such persons as are obliged
to travel during the winter. But we found much traffic on the road, and
often overtook caravans of 15 to 20 horses. Being the beginning of
August, it was the time of trade and traffic in Iceland. Then the
country people travel to Reikjavik from considerable distances, to change
their produce and manufactures, partly for money, partly for necessaries
and luxuries. At this period the merchants and factors have not hands
enough to barter the goods or close the accounts which the peasants wish
to settle for the whole year.

At this season an unusual commotion reigns in Reikjavik. Numerous groups
of men and horses fill the streets; goods are loaded and unloaded;
friends who have not met for a year or more welcome each other, others
take leave. On one spot curious tents {44} are erected, before which
children play; on another drunken men stagger along, or gallop on
horseback, so that one is terrified, and fears every moment to see them
fall.

This unusual traffic unfortunately only lasts six or eight days. The
peasant hastens home to his hay-harvest; the merchant must quickly
regulate the produce and manufactures he has purchased, and load his
ships with them, so that they may sail and reach their destination before
the storms of the autumnal equinox.

Miles.
From Reikjavik to Thingvalla is 45
From Thingvalla to the Geyser 36
From the Geyser to Skalholt 28
From Skalholt to Salsun 36
From Salsun to Struvellir 9
From Struvellir to Hjalmholm 28
From Hjalmholm to Reikum 32
From Reikum to Reikjavik 45
259
CHAPTER VII

During my travels in Iceland I had of course the opportunity of becoming
acquainted with its inhabitants, their manners and customs. I must
confess that I had formed a higher estimate of the peasants. When we
read in the history of that country that the first inhabitants had
emigrated thither from civilised states; that they had brought knowledge
and religion with them; when we hear of the simple good-hearted p