gen cannot be
reached at the expected time.

If a ship is unfortunate enough to reach Helsingor on a dark night, she
may not enter at all for fear of a collision. She has to anchor in the
Cattegat, and thus suffer two interruptions. If she arrives at Helsingor
in the night before four o'clock, she has to wait, as the custom-house is
not opened till that time.

The skipper is, however, at liberty to proceed direct to Copenhagen, but
this liberty costs five thalers (fifteen shillings). If, however, the
toll may thus be paid in Copenhagen just as easily, the obligation to
stop at Helsingor is only a trick to gain the higher toll; for if a
captain is in haste, or the wind is too favourable to be lost, he
forfeits the five thalers, and sails on to Copenhagen.

Our captain cared neither for time nor trouble; he cleared the ship here,
and so we did not reach Copenhagen until two o'clock in the afternoon.
After my long absence, it seemed so familiar, so beautiful and grand, as
if I had seen nothing so beautiful in my whole life. My readers must
bear in mind, however, where I came from, and how long I had been
imprisoned in a vessel in which I scarcely had space to move. When I put
foot on shore again, I could have imitated Columbus, and prostrated
myself to kiss the earth.

DEPARTURE FROM COPENHAGEN.--CHRISTIANIA.

On the 19th August, the day after my arrival from Iceland, at two o'clock
in the afternoon, I had already embarked again; this time in the fine
royal Norwegian steamer _Christiania_, of 170 horsepower, bound for the
town of Christiania, distant 304 sea-miles from Copenhagen. We had soon
passed through the Sound and arrived safely in the Cattegat, in which we
steered more to the right than on the journey to Iceland; for we not only
intended to see Norway and Sweden, but to cast anchor on the coast.

We could plainly see the fine chain of mountains which bound the Cattegat
on the right, and whose extreme point, the Kulm, runs into the sea like a
long promontory. Lighthouses are erected here, and on the other numerous
dangerous spots of the coast, and their lights shine all around in the
dark night. Some of the lights are movable, and some stationary, and
point out to the sailor which places to avoid.

August 20th.

Bad weather is one of the greatest torments of a traveller, and is more
disagreeable when one passes through districts rema