very imposing sight. This is
increased by a gigantic rock planted like a wall in the lower basin, and
opposing its body to the progress of the hurrying waters. The waves
rebound from the rock, and, collecting in mighty masses, rush over it,
forming several smaller waterfalls in their course.
I watched it from a high rock, and was nevertheless covered by the spray
to such a degree, that I sometimes could scarcely open my eyes. My guide
then took me to the lower part of the fall, so that I might have a view
of it from all sides; and each view seemed different and more splendid.
I perceived the same yellow transparent colour which I had remarked in
the fall at Kongsberg in the waters which dashed over the rock and were
illuminated by the sun. I imagine it arises from the rock, which is
every where of a brownish-red colour, for the water itself was clear and
pure.
At four o'clock in the afternoon I left Kongsberg, and drove to Bolkesoe,
a distance of eighteen miles. It was by no means a beautiful or an
agreeable drive; for the road was very bad, and took me through passes
and valleys, across woods and over steep mountains, while the night was
dark and unilluminated by the moon. The thought involuntarily entered my
mind, how easily my guide, who sat close behind me on the vehicle, could
put me out of the world by a gentle blow, and take possession of my
effects. But I had confidence in the upright character of the
Norwegians, and drove on quietly, devoting my attention entirely to the
reins of my little steed, which I had to lead with a sure hand over hill
and valley, over ruts and stones, and along precipices. I heard no sound
but the rushing of the mountain-river, which leaped, close beside us,
over the rocks, and was heard rushing in the far distance.
We did not arrive at Bolkesoe until ten o'clock at night. When we
stopped before an insignificant-looking peasant's cot, and I remembered
my Icelandic night-accommodations, whose exterior this resembled, my
courage failed me; but I was agreeably disappointed when the peasant's
wife led me up a broad staircase into a large clean chamber furnished
with several good beds, some benches, a table, a box, and an iron stove.
I found equal comforts on all the stations of my journey.
There are no proper hotels or posthouses on the little-frequented
Norwegian roads; but the wealthy peasants undertake the duties of both.
I would, however, advise every traveller to provid
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