e himself with bread
and other provisions for the trip; for his peasant-host rarely can
furnish him with these. His cows are on the hills during the summer;
fowls are far too great a luxury for him; and his bread is scarcely
eatable: it consists of large round cakes, scarcely half an inch thick,
and very hard; or of equally large cakes scarcely as thick as a knife,
and quite dry. The only eatables I found were fish and potatoes; and
whenever I could stay for several hours, they fetched milk for me from
the hills.

The travelling conveniences are still more unattainable; but these I will
mention in a future chapter, when my experience will be a little more
extensive.

August 26th.

I could not see the situation of the town of Bolkesoe till daylight
to-day, for when I arrived the darkness of night concealed it. It is
situated in a pretty wooded vale, on a little hill at whose foot lies a
beautiful lake of the same name.

The road from here to Tindosoe, about sixteen miles, is not practicable
for vehicles, and I therefore left my carriol here and proceeded on
horseback. The country grows more quiet and uninhabited, and the valleys
become real chasms. Two lakes of considerable size form an agreeable
variety to the wildness of the scenery. The larger one, called the
Foelsoe, is of a regular form, and above two miles in diameter; it is
encircled by picturesque mountains. The effect of the shadows which the
pine-covered mountain-tops throw on the lakes is particularly attractive.
I rode along its shores for more than an hour, and had leisure to see and
examine every thing very accurately, for the horses here travel at a very
slow pace. The reason of this is partly that the guide has no horse, and
walks beside you in a very sleepy manner; the horse knows its master's
peculiarities by long experience, and is only too willing to encourage
him in his slow, dull pace. I spent more than five hours in reaching
Tindosoe. My next object of interest was the celebrated waterfall of
Rykanfoss, to reach which we had to cross a large lake. Although it had
rained incessantly for an hour, and the sky looked threatening, I at once
hired a boat with two rowers to continue my journey without interruption;
for I anticipated a storm, and then I should not have found a boatman who
would have ventured a voyage of four or five hours on this dangerous
lake. In two hours my b