anied me several miles on my road, and we
chatted away the time very pleasantly.

The distance between Krisuvik and Keblevik is about forty-two miles. The
road lies through a most dreary landscape, among vast desert plains,
frequently twenty-five to thirty miles in circumference, entirely
divested of all traces of vegetation, and covered throughout their
extreme area by masses of lava--gloomy monuments of volcanic agency. And
yet here, at the very heart of the subterranean fire, I saw only a single
mountain, the summit of which had fallen in, and presented the appearance
of a crater. The rest were all completely closed, terminating sometimes
in a beautiful round top, and sometimes in sharp peaks; in other
instances they formed long narrow chains.

Who can tell whence these all-destroying masses of lava have poured
forth, or how many hundred years they have lain in these petrified
valleys?

Keblevik lies on the sea-coast; but the harbour is insecure, so that
ships remain here at anchor only so long as is absolutely necessary;
there are frequently only two or three ships in the harbour.

A few wooden houses, two of which belong to Herr Knudson, and some
peasants' cottages, are the only buildings in this little village. I was
hospitably received, and rested from the toils of the day at the house of
Herr Siverson, Herr Knudson's manager.

On the following day (June 6th) I had a long ride to Reikjavik,
thirty-six good miles, mostly through fields of lava.

The whole tract of country from Grundivik almost to Havenfiord is called
"The lava-fields of Reikianes."

Tired and almost benumbed with cold, I arrived in the evening at
Reikjavik, with no other wish than to retire to rest as fast as possible.

In these three days I had ridden 114 miles, besides enduring much from
cold, storms, and rain. To my great surprise, the roads had generally
been good; there were, however, many places highly dangerous and
difficult.

But what mattered these fatigues, forgotten, as they were, after a single
night's rest? what were they in comparison to the unutterably beautiful
and marvellous phenomena of the north, which will remain ever present to
my imagination so long as memory shall be spared me?

The distances of this excursion were: From Reikjavik to Krisuvik, 37
miles; from Krisuvik to Keblevik, 39 miles; from Keblevik to Reikjavik,
38 miles: total, 114 miles.

CHAPTER V

As the weather continued fine, I wished t