. The greater portion of these miniature forests grow on the lava
with which the valley is covered.

The formation of the lava here assumes a new character. Up to this point
it has mostly appeared either in large masses or in streams lying in
strata one above the other; but here the lava covered the greater portion
of the ground in the form of immense flat slabs or blocks of rock, often
split in a vertical direction. I saw long fissures of eight or ten feet
in breadth, and from ten to fifteen feet in depth. In these clefts the
flowers blossom earlier, and the fern grows taller and more luxuriantly,
than in the boisterous upper world.

After the valley of Thingvalla has been passed the journey becomes very
monotonous. The district beyond is wholly uninhabited, and we travelled
many miles without seeing a single cottage. From one desert valley we
passed into another; all were alike covered with light-grey or yellowish
lava, and at intervals also with fine sand, in which the horses sunk
deeply at every step. The mountains surrounding these valleys were none
of the highest, and it was seldom that a jokul or glacier shone forth
from among them. The mountains had a certain polished appearance, their
sides being perfectly smooth and shining. In some instances, however,
masses of lava formed beautiful groups, bearing a great resemblance to
ruins of ancient buildings, and standing out in peculiarly fine relief
from the smooth walls.

These mountains are of different colours; they are black or brown, grey
or yellow, &c.; and the different shades of these colours are displayed
with marvellous effect in the brilliant sunshine.

Nine hours of uninterrupted riding brought us into a large tract of
moorland, very scantily covered with moss. Yet this was the first and
only grazing-place to be met with in all the long distance from
Thingvalla. We therefore made a halt of two hours, to let our poor
horses pick a scanty meal. Large swarms of minute gnats, which seemed to
fly into our eyes, nose, and mouth, annoyed us dreadfully during our stay
in this place.

On this moor there was also a small lake; and here I saw for the first
time a small flock of swans. Unfortunately these creatures are so very
timid, that the most cautious approach of a human being causes them to
rise with the speed of lightning into the air. I was therefore obliged
perforce to be content with a distant view of these proud birds. They
always keep i