winter. So we continued our journey until we
reached a scanty meadow. Here I had my choice either to walk about for
two hours, or to sit down upon the wet grass. I could find nothing
better to do than to turn my back upon the wind and rain, to remain
standing on one spot, to have patience, and for amusement to observe the
direction in which the clouds scudded by. At the same time I discussed
my frugal meal, more for want of something to do than from hunger; if I
felt thirsty, I had only to turn round and open my mouth.

If there are natures peculiarly fitted for travelling, I am fortunate in
being blessed with such an one. No rain or wind was powerful enough to
give me even a cold. During this whole excursion I had tasted no warm or
nourishing food; I had slept every night upon a bench or a chest; had
ridden nearly 255 miles in six days; and had besides scrambled about
bravely in the cavern of Surthellir; and, in spite of all this privation
and fatigue, I arrived at Reikjavik in good health and spirits.

Short summary of this journey:

Miles
First day, from Reikjavik to 46
Thingvalla
Second day, from Thingvalla to 51
Reikholt
Third day, from Reikholt to the 19
different springs, and back again
Fourth day, from Reikholt to 40
Surthellir, and back to
Kalmannstunga
Fifth day, from Kalmannstunga to 51
Thingvalla
Sixth day, from Thingvalla to 46
Reikjavik
Total 253

CHAPTER VI

The weather soon cleared up, and I continued my journey to the Geyser and
to Mount Hecla on the 24th June. On the first day, when we rode to
Thingvalla, we passed no new scenery, but saw instead an extremely
beautiful atmospheric phenomenon.

[Picture: The Geysers]

As we approached the lake, some thin mist-clouds lowered over it and over
the earth, so that it seemed as if it would rain. One portion of the
firmament glowed with the brightest blue; while the other part was
obscured by thick clouds, through which the sun was just breaking. Some
of its rays reached the clouds of mist, and illuminated them in a
wonderfully beautiful manner. The most delicate shades of colour seemed
breathed, as it were, over them like a dissolving rainbow, whose glowing
colours were intermingled and yet singly perceptible. This play of
colours continued for half an hour, then faded gradually till it vanished
ent