ough glassy state, forming exquisite flames and
arabesques; and in immense slabs, lying sometimes scattered, sometimes
piled in strata one above the other, as though they had been cast there
by a flood. Among these, again, lie mighty isolated streams, which must
have been frozen in the midst of their course. From the different
colours of the lava, and their transitions from light grey to black, we
can judge of the eruptions which have taken place at different periods.
The mountains surrounding this valley are mostly of a sombre hue; some
are even black, forming a striking contrast to the neighbouring jokuls,
which, in their large expanse, present the appearance almost of a sea of
ice. I found one of these jokuls of a remarkable size; its shining
expanse extended far down into the valley, and its upper surface was
almost immeasurable.

The other mountains were all smooth, as though polished by art; in the
foreground I only noticed one which was covered with wonderful forms of
dried lava. A deathlike silence weighed on the whole country round, on
hill and on valley alike. Every thing seemed dead, all round was barren
and desert, so that the effect was truly Icelandic. The greater portion
of Iceland might be with justice designated the "Northern Desert."

The cavern of Surthellir lies on a slightly elevated extended plain,
where it would certainly not be sought for, as we are accustomed to see
natural phenomena of this description only in the bowels of rocks. It
is, therefore, with no little surprise that the traveller sees suddenly
opening before him a large round basin about fifteen fathoms in diameter,
and four in depth. It was with a feeling of awe that I looked downwards
on the countless blocks of rock piled one upon the other, extending on
one side to the edge of the hollow, across which the road led to the dark
ravines farther on.

We were compelled to scramble forward on our hands and knees, until we
reached a long broad passage, which led us at first imperceptibly
downwards, and then ran underneath the plain, which formed a rocky cavern
above our heads. I estimated the different heights of this roof at not
less than from eighteen to sixty feet; but it seldom reached a greater
elevation than the latter. Both roof and walls are in some places very
pointed and rough: a circumstance to be ascribed to the stalactites which
adhere to them, without, however, forming figures or long sharp points.

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