the broad estuary where the rivers
Taw and Torridge flow into the ocean. We came off Appledore, at the
mouth of the Torridge, on which Bideford is situated. Bideford has an
ancient school-house, where many a naval hero acquired such education as
was considered necessary to prepare him for a life on the ocean.
Another interesting object is its bridge, six hundred and seventy-seven
feet in length, supported by twenty-four small arches, and carrying iron
buttresses on its side to widen the roadway; very ugly, I thought.
From Bideford also sailed many an exploring expedition; while its
gallant mariners were well-known on the Spanish main, where they filled
their pockets with doubloons, won at the point of their swords from the
haughty Dons. A new school has lately been established in this
neighbourhood for the sons of naval and military officers; and Dick and
I agreed that we should like to go there.
Returning down the river, we pulled up the northern arm of the estuary.
Barnstaple is a place of considerable importance, which has existed
since the reign of the Saxon kings: Athelstan, having built a castle
here, made the town into a borough. It is a handsome-looking place, but
the harbour is much blocked up, so that only small vessels can enter.
The river is spanned by an ancient stone bridge, the width of which is
increased, as at Bideford, by iron projections for foot passengers;
there is also a railway on either side. We saw a number of vessels
building, and passed some large woollen and lace manufactories.
As we had all read _Westward Ho_! we were anxious to see Clovelly, which
lies at the south side of the bay. So, early the next morning, getting
under weigh, the tide being favourable, we ran out of the harbour, and
stood across to that most picturesque of villages. Bringing up, we went
on shore. We might almost have fancied ourselves in some Chinese place,
as we climbed up the High Street, which is built in a hollow, with
cliffs on either side, a rapid stream rushing down it towards the sea.
The streets are very narrow, running in a zigzag fashion; but the little
gardens full of flowers at the side of each doorway give it a most
attractive appearance. It is also clean and neat in the extreme; while
the romantic scenery around, and the views over Bideford Bay, covered as
it was then by the dark red sails of numberless trawling-boats, made us
very glad that we had landed.
As we had not much time to spare
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