we came to an anchor in the snug harbour of Tobermory. It is a very
picturesque village, situated at the foot of hills which run round the
bay. We were told that one of the ships of the Invincible Armada, the
Florida, was sunk in the bay by something resembling a torpedo,
manufactured by a renowned witch who lived in those days on Mull. She
was instigated to the deed by the wife of Maclean of Duart. The lady
had become jealous of a fair princess, who was voyaging on board the
Florida, and had fallen in love with her lord. It is asserted that the
Spanish damsel was a daughter of the King of Spain; and having dreamed
that a young gentleman of engaging appearance had invited her to become
his bride, was sailing round the world in search of him, when, on seeing
Maclean, he seemed to be the creature of her fancy.

Sailing from Tobermory, bound for the western coast of Skye, we passed
the island of Muck, an unpleasant-sounding name. To the north is the
curious island of Eig, the southern side of which is perfectly flat, but
in the north rises a lofty perpendicular rock, called the Scuir of Eig.
Within it is a large cavern, which was the scene of one of those
atrocious acts in "the good old days" when might made right. Two
hundred Macdonalds, fugitives from a superior number of Macleods, had
taken refuge in the cavern, when, unfortunately for them, one of their
party, having left the mark of his footsteps in the snow, their place of
concealment was betrayed. The Macleods filled up the mouth of the
cavern with wood and dried sea-weed, and setting it on fire, literally
smoked them to death. One of the Macdonalds being connected by marriage
with the Macleods, was offered permission to crawl out on his hands and
knees, and to bring out four others along with him in safety; but having
selected a friend hated by the Macleods, who refused to spare the man's
life, he preferred to suffer death with his clansmen than to live on
without them. Until quite a late period, the bones of the ill-fated
Macdonalds were still to be seen lying near the entrance. Say what we
will in favour of the Highlanders, they were a fearfully savage people
in those days.

The part of the Highlands amid which we were sailing was the scene of
many of the Pretender's adventures. Had not Prince Charles been an
excellent climber, he would not have escaped his enemies, when they were
hunting him like a hare. They nearly entrapped him in one of the many