We now parted from the Dolphin, saluting each other
with loud cheers; and while she sailed northward, with the wind on the
beam, we steered south through the broad passage which separates Raasay
from the mainland.
"I'll tell you all about the northern coast and John o' Groat's House;
and you shall give me an account of the canal, though I don't envy you,"
shouted Jack, as we parted.
The wind sometimes headed us, but we saw more of the coast until,
passing Applecross, we reached the Island of Scalpa. We then had a fair
wind past Loch Carron to Loch Alsh, which lies between one end of Skye
and the mainland. Steering due east, we ran through it, and then again
had to haul up to pass through the narrow channel which separates the
south end of Skye from the main.
Hauling our wind, we stood through a very narrow passage, and entered
Sleat Sound, a broad expanse, when once more we had Eig in sight on our
starboard bow, and passed the entrance to numerous lochs, many of them,
like Loch Hourn and Loch Nevish, between lofty mountains. Passing Muck
and then Ardnamurchan on our port side, we entered Loch Sunart. Running
by Tobermory with the wind nearly aft, we entered the Sound of Mull,
which carried us into Loch Linnhe, opposite the Island of Lismore. Just
opposite to us, on the south end of the island, we saw Auchindown
Castle, a lofty square building on the top of a rock rising out of the
sea, which was once in possession of the Bishops of Argyle and the
Isles, but which is much more like a castle than an episcopal residence.
Standing on, with the wind on our port beam, we ran up Loch Linnhe,
passing the entrance to Loch Leven, near to which is the Pass of
Glencoe, where, as every one knows, Mac Ian, the chief of the Macdonalds
of Glencoe, with a number of his family and followers, was treacherously
murdered by Campbell of Glen Lyon, and a party of military under his
command.
It was dark when we reached Fort William, at the head of Loch Linnhe,
though the water still ran a long way, turning to the left and forming
Loch Eil. This loch gives its name to a branch of the Camerons, to
which belonged one of the most redoubtable opponents of Cromwell in the
Highlands--Sir Ewan Cameron. In consequence, the Protector built a fort
at Inverloch, which in King William's reign was greatly enlarged,
receiving the name of Fort William.
Beyond the fort to the eastward we saw Ben Nevis, while to the north was
the entrance
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