had seen the revolving light of the
island before entering Barnstaple Bay. The east coast is bold and
precipitous, with numerous deep ravines running into the cliffs. The
south end is even more rugged than the northern. Near the landing-place
is a cave hollowed out of a black rock, called the Devil's Kitchen; and
beyond it is a narrow opening filled with dangerous rocks, known as
Hell's Gate. Indeed, from their character many spots hereabouts are
called after Satan or his imps. As papa observed, people are ready
enough to give Satan credit for the physical ills they suffer, but too
often forget the fearful moral power he exerts, and yield themselves his
willing slaves. Curiously enough, the chief proprietor of the island,
who lives in a substantial house, rejoices in the name of "Heaven."
So narrow is the landing-place, that we had to follow each other in
single file. We had a glorious scramble among the rocks. On the top of
a height appeared Marisco's Castle, with low walls and four towers,
reminding us of the Tower of London.
Lundy Island has been the refuge of persons of high and low degree. No
small number of smugglers have made it their abode, as from thence
formerly they could carry on their lawless trade with impunity. The
most noted of them was a man named Benson, at one time a member of
Parliament, who had ultimately to escape to "foreign lands" to avoid
punishment. The pirates also in days of yore used to make it their
headquarters; indeed, Marisco, who built the castle, may be included in
the category of outlaws. He, with a daring band of followers, long
carried on their depredations on foreign and mercantile shipping, until
they were all captured and hanged.
We met with vast numbers of puffins, cormorants, and sea-gulls, which
inhabit the cliffs of the island; and we obtained some good specimens of
their eggs. The most curious were those of the guillemot, which, though
little larger than the puffin, have eggs as large as those of geese.
They are white, chocolate, or verdigris green, covered with curious
figures and dashes; and it is said that, notwithstanding the number
collected, no two have ever been found exactly alike. We took on board
a number of eggs to eat. The yolk is a deep red, and the white
transparent. The egg of the cormorant is but little larger than that of
a pigeon. All these eggs are laid on ledges of the rocks. Being small
at one end and large at the other, the wind
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