pipe-tubes for the negroes of Timbuctoo, and other territories of
Sudan, bordering on the Nile el Abeed, or Nile of the Negroes
(Niger).
Passing through this territory of encampments, when travellers are
disposed to sleep at a douar, one of the party presents himself at
the confines of the encampment, and exclaims (_Deef Allah_) "The
guest of God." The sheik of the douar is immediately apprised of
the circumstance; and after investigating the rank of the
travellers, he enquires if they have tents with them; if they have
not, he has his own or (_kheyma deaf_) the guest's tent
appropriated for the travellers. If they have their own tents,
which persons of respectability generally have, the sheik comes and
directs the servants where to pitch them; the camels and mules are
disburdened, and the sheik declares (_atshie m'hassub alia_) "For
all this baggage I hold myself accountable." Europeans travelling
in this country generally follow their own customs: accordingly,
among the English, tea is ordered; a most delectable refreshment
after a fatiguing journey on horseback, exposed to the scorching
rays of the African sun. If the sheik and a few of his friends are
invited to tea, which these Arabs designate by (_elma skoon u el
hadra_) hot water and conversation, they like it very sweet, and
drink half-a-dozen cups at least. Nothing ingratiates travellers
with these people so much as distributing a few lumps of sugar
234 among them: sugar, honey, or any thing sweet, being with these
Arabs emblematical of peace and friendship. Some of the women of
the Arabs are extremely handsome; in all the simplicity of nature
"when unadorned adorned the most." To fine figures they unite
handsome profiles, good and white teeth, and large, black,
expressive, intelligent eyes, like the eyes of a gazel; dark
eye-brows, and dark long eye-lashes, which give a peculiar warmth
and softness to the eye. They concern themselves little about time,
and will sometimes come to converse after midnight with the
Europeans. When the guard of the tent informs them they cannot go
in, that the Christian is a-bed and undressed, they are not less
astonished than we are to see them sleeping in the open air at
night, on the ground, with their clothes on. When candles are
brought into the tent
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