tion, judging by these interesting remains. Of this land, lying
far to the south of the Aztec territory, and of its people, even
tradition has nothing to reveal to us. But its ruins are presumed to be
contemporary with those better known in Yucatan, which they resemble in
many important particulars. One other notable plant grows wild
hereabouts, less pleasing to the senses, but well known as an important
drug in our medical practice, namely, jalap, which takes its name from
the locality, or the place is named after the plant.
The atmosphere of Jalapa is always humid, and the city is often
overshadowed by clouds which come up from the Gulf of Mexico, heavy with
moisture to be precipitated in the form of rain. A sort of "drizzling"
prevails most of the time, like that which one encounters at Bergen, in
Norway, or at Sitka, Alaska. In the former place it is said to rain
eight days in the week.
The old convent of San Francisco, vast in extent and once equally so in
influence, is an object of considerable interest, situated in the centre
of the town. It is believed to have been erected by Cortez, and was once
occupied by a powerful community of Franciscans. This was also the
birthplace of General Santa Anna, the most notorious of Mexico's
soldiers of fortune, and whose now neglected hacienda is pointed out to
the visitor. In his checkered career Santa Anna was constantly falling
from position, but this was only the prelude to his rising again and to
a greater elevation, from which he was sure to be ignominiously hurled.
Here the author had a first taste of the universal tortilla, which is to
the people of Mexico what macaroni is to the lazzaroni of Naples, or
bread to a New Englander. It is made from Indian corn, as already
intimated, not ground in a mill to the condition of meal, but after
being soaked in the kernel and softened by potash, it is rolled between
two stones, and water being added a paste or dough is formed, which is
manipulated between the palms of the hands to a thin flat cake and baked
over a charcoal fire in an earthen brazier. It is very palatable and
nutritious to a hungry person. Those who can afford to do so often mix
some appetizing ingredient with the simple cakes, such as sweets,
peppers, or chopped meats. The scores of Indian women who come to market
to offer their grain, baskets, fruits, vegetables, and flowers for sale,
are wrapped in rebosas of various colors, but are barefooted,
bareheaded,
|