jara,
should rank next to the city of Mexico in wealth, general interest, and
commercial importance. Both are progressive capitals, remarkably so for
this country.

The grand cathedral was finished in 1618, having a noble facade, a
graceful dome, and two lofty towers partly covered with enameled tiles.
The front is richly carved, and ornamented by fluted pillars. The
interior of the dome is as finely frescoed as the famous church of
Burgos, in Spain, or that of the church of St. John, in the island of
Malta. Of this latter church it strongly reminded us. The great altar is
finished in white and gold. A narrow gallery of gilded metal runs around
the entire building on a level with the capitals of the pillars which
support the roof. It seems that during religious services here a few
years ago, two of the organists were struck by lightning while playing
and instantly killed. The towers of the cathedral show some evidence of
having been disturbed by an earthquake, which occurred in 1818. There
are thirty churches in all in Guadalajara, and, like the other public
buildings, they are unusually fine.

This is quite an ancient city, having been founded in 1541.
Manufacturing is carried on to a considerable extent; among the articles
produced are fine pottery, cotton cloth, silk, rebosas, musical
instruments, and leather goods. The native Indian race hereabouts, and,
indeed, in places further south, are great adepts, as already explained,
in the manufacture of antiquities. We saw here some remarkably fine
examples of pottery, designed and finished by native artists who had
never enjoyed an hour's instruction. It was the result of an inborn
artistic taste. The lace-like drawn-work produced by the Indian women
from fine linen rivals the best work of the kind which comes from South
America, where the natives have long been famous for fine work in this
special line.

The Hospicio San Miguel de Belen is a very comprehensive and
well-conducted establishment, containing a hospital proper, with male
and female wards, a lunatic asylum, and a primary school. Other
evidences of keeping pace with the times were seen in the presence of
the telephone, electric lights, and a good system of tramways. The
environs of the city are justly famous for many beautiful gardens and a
grand paseo shaded by noble trees, mostly elms, with broad, spreading
limbs and of great age. The Campo Santo is not unlike that at Vera Cruz,
the bodies being deposite