it once contained a much larger number
of inhabitants than it can boast of to-day. It will be remembered that
the American forces, in the year 1847, advanced upon and took possession
of the city after the battle of Sacramento, which occurred February 28
of that year. This was the force commanded by Colonel Doniphan, and from
here it made the celebrated march southward, forming a junction with the
division of General Taylor.

The city presents a pleasing and thrifty aspect, though most of the
houses are but one story in height and constructed of adobe, with low,
flat roofs, very much like an Egyptian town,--a comparison which is
constantly occurring to us in Mexico. The patios of the better class of
houses are ornamented with flowering plants, and pets of all sorts,
especially birds, are numerous, the favorite species being the
mocking-bird. One patio we noticed full to repletion of tame pigeons,
blue, black, white, and mottled fantails. The state and government
buildings, the mint with its low, square tower, and a few other edifices
are large and handsome structures. In the tower of the mint the patriot
Hidalgo was confined, with three of his comrades, previous to their
execution. They were shot here July 31, 1811. In the Plaza de Armas
there stands a fine monument to the memory of Hidalgo. The cathedral,
the shell of which cost over eight hundred thousand dollars, stands on
one side of the plaza, an area ornamented as usual with beautiful trees
and flowers, together with a large fountain in the centre, about which
are winding paths, and benches whereon to enjoy the shade. This is a
delightful resort in the evening, when the music-loving populace are
regaled with the admirable performance of a Mexican military band three
or four times a week. The cathedral is of the Moorish and Gothic orders
combined, and it has considerable architectural merit, bearing upon its
rather crudely ornamented front thirteen statues, representing San
Francisco and the twelve apostles. The interior was found to contain
some interesting and valuable oil-paintings, though we saw them in an
extremely bad light. The towers of this cathedral are remarkable for a
costly collection of bells, and the interior of the church for a series
of magnificent carvings. One of these bells is pointed out to the
visitor as having been broken by a cannon-ball during the bombardment of
the town by the French in 1866. The other sides of the plaza are
bordered by th