, formed by the entwined branches, was exquisite
in effect. In the busy portion of the town, groups of Indians, wrapped
in bright-colored blankets, added variety to the scene.

Wood carvings and wax figures from the hands of intelligent native
artists,--for artists they are--come so near to one's ideas of
perfection as to be a surprise. This artistic genius was also observed
among the humbler classes further south, and is by no means confined to
the neighborhood of Chihuahua. After a few moments of watchful
observation of even a stranger, some of these Indians will retire, and
in an almost incredibly brief space of time will return with an
excellent likeness of the individual whom they design to represent, not
merely as regards his ordinary physique, but in facial expression.
Practice has made them quite perfect in this impromptu modeling.
Chihuahua, if we may credit the historians, as well as judge by the
remains, once had a population of two hundred thousand.

A singular and most disagreeable custom was observed here which prevails
in some other Mexican cities: that of placing fantastic signs, painted
in gigantic size, on the outside of shops. These are grotesque
representations of the business carried on within. It would seem as
though the object was to ridicule the proprietor's occupation by the
vulgarity of these signs. Be this as it may, the inevitable half dozen
pulque drinkers lean upon the counter all the while, absorbing the
liquid which brings insensibility. As they drop off one by one, their
places are taken by others, who are promptly supplied by the plethoric
bar-tender. In the plaza peons were offering for sale a very small
species of dog indigenous to this district, tiny creatures, peculiarly
marked and evidently stunted by some artificial means. However, some of
our party were captivated, and became purchasers of the delicate little
tremulous creatures. Considerable building was observed to be in
progress here, not structures of adobe, but fine stone edifices, of an
attractive and modern style of architecture, three stories in height.
One of these was designed for a hotel, and would be an ornament to any
city.

Though Chihuahua is two hundred and twenty-five miles south of the Rio
Grande, still it shows many signs of its proximity to this country. Such
buildings as we have just referred to would not be thought of in middle
or southern Mexico. American fashions in many things are obvious; a
large port