y, and when an erratic earthquake, which is no
respecter of sacred buildings, tumbles over some high-reaching dome or
tower, or twists a facade out of plumb, it is left to remain in that
condition, and soon becomes a partial ruin. We saw several thus
dilapidated in different sections of the country. Jalapa enjoys a
commanding situation at the base of the Cofre de Perote, on undulating
ground on the slope of the so-called hill of Macuiltepec; many of the
streets are therefore very steep, and the scenery, which is really
beautiful, is quite Alpine in character.

The low stone houses are perched on the hillsides, and the streets are
irregular. This neighborhood is said to produce the prettiest women and
the loveliest flowers to be found in all Mexico, and it is certain that
in its gardens may be gathered the fruits and flowers of every zone.
Among other special products of this vicinity is the aromatic vanilla
plant, which is indigenous here and grows in wild abundance in the
forests, proving a great source of income to the industrious native
gatherers. The plant requires only shade and moisture. The peculiar soil
and climate do the rest. The harvest is gathered in March and April. The
flowers of the vanilla are of a greenish yellow, touched here and there
with white. It has a climbing stalk. The pods grow in pairs and are
about as large round as one's little finger, and six inches long, though
they vary, and the longer they are the greater is considered their
value. These are green at first, gradually turning to yellow, and then
to brown, as they become fully ripe. They are carefully dried in the
sun, being touched during the process with palm oil, which gives them a
soft, glossy effect when they reach the consumers' hands. Chocolate
perfumed with vanilla was a Mexican dish which Montezuma placed before
Cortez. The quantity shipped from Jalapa is very considerable in the
aggregate, and proves an important source of revenue. We are told that
the vanilla was successfully cultivated here by the Totonacs, ancient
dwellers in this region, the aromatic product being highly appreciated
by the Sybaritic Montezuma and the Aztec nobles generally, and
commanding even in those days a liberal price. Humboldt speaks of "the
vanilla, whose odoriferous fruit is used as a perfume, growing in the
ever-green forests of Papantla." Here also are found ruins left by some
forgotten race who must have reached to a certain degree of high
civiliza