wanting the private passage, the dark cavity,
the deep dungeon, or the lofty tower. We did not discover the Well. This
is the most compleat view that I have yet had of an old Castle.[1226] It
had a moat.

The Towers.

We went to Bangor.

AUGUST 20.

We went by water from Bangor to Caernarvon, where we met Paoli and Sir
Thomas Wynne. Meeting by chance with one Troughton,[1227] an intelligent
and loquacious wanderer, Mr. Thrale invited him to dinner. He attended
us to the Castle, an edifice of stupendous magnitude and strength; it
has in it all that we observed at Beaumaris, and much greater
dimensions: many of the smaller rooms floored with stone are entire; of
the larger rooms, the beams and planks are all left: this is the state
of all buildings left to time. We mounted the Eagle Tower by one hundred
and sixty-nine steps, each of ten inches. We did not find the Well; nor
did I trace the Moat; but moats there were, I believe, to all castles on
the plain, which not only hindered access, but prevented mines. We saw
but a very small part of this mighty ruin, and in all these old
buildings, the subterraneous works are concealed by the rubbish.

To survey this place would take much time: I did not think there had
been such buildings; it surpassed my ideas.

AUGUST 21.

We were at Church; the service in the town is always English; at the
parish Church at a small distance, always Welsh. The town has by
degrees, I suppose, been brought nearer to the sea side.

We received an invitation to Dr. Worthington. We then went to dinner at
Sir Thomas Wynne's,--the dinner mean, Sir Thomas civil, his Lady
nothing.[1228] Paoli civil.

We supped with Colonel Wynne's Lady, who lives in one of the towers of
the Castle.

I have not been very well.

AUGUST 22.

We went to visit Bodville, the place where Mrs. Thrale was born; and the
Churches called Tydweilliog and Llangwinodyl, which she holds by
impropriation.

We had an invitation to the house of Mr. Griffiths of Bryn o dol, where
we found a small neat new built house, with square rooms: the walls are
of unhewn stone, and therefore thick; for the stones not fitting with
exactness, are not strong without great thickness. He had planted a
great deal of young wood in walks. Fruit trees do not thrive; but having
grown a few years, reach some barren stratum and wither.

We found Mr. Griffiths not at home; but the provisions were good. Mr.
Griffiths came home the next day. He m