tent with one bed, but, for a time, none could be
had. Mrs. Thrale gave her what help she could. At last two gentlemen
were persuaded to yield up their room, with two beds, for which she gave
half a guinea. Our coach was at last brought, and we set out with some
anxiety, but we came to Penmaen Mawr by daylight; and found a way,
lately made, very easy, and very safe.[1224] It was cut smooth, and
enclosed between parallel walls; the outer of which secures the
passenger from the precipice, which is deep and dreadful. This wall is
here and there broken, by mischievous wantonness.[1225] The inner wall
preserves the road from the loose stones, which the shattered steep
above it would pour down. That side of the mountain seems to have a
surface of loose stones, which every accident may crumble. The old road
was higher, and must have been very formidable. The sea beats at the
bottom of the way.
At evening the moon shone eminently bright; and our thoughts of danger
being now past, the rest of our journey was very pleasant. At an hour
somewhat late, we came to Bangor, where we found a very mean inn, and
had some difficulty to obtain lodging. I lay in a room, where the other
bed had two men.
AUGUST 19.
We obtained boats to convey us to Anglesey, and saw Lord Bulkeley's
House, and Beaumaris Castle.
I was accosted by Mr. Lloyd, the Schoolmaster of Beaumaris, who had seen
me at University College; and he, with Mr. Roberts, the Register of
Bangor, whose boat we borrowed, accompanied us. Lord Bulkeley's house
is very mean, but his garden garden is spacious, and shady with large
trees and smaller interspersed. The walks are straight, and cross each
other, with no variety of plan; but they have a pleasing coolness, and
solemn gloom, and extend to a great length.
The castle is a mighty pile; the outward wall has fifteen round towers,
besides square towers at the angles. There is then a void space between
the wall and the Castle, which has an area enclosed with a wall, which
again has towers, larger than those of the outer wall. The towers of the
inner Castle are, I think, eight. There is likewise a Chapel entire,
built upon an arch as I suppose, and beautifully arched with a stone
roof, which is yet unbroken. The entrance into the Chapel is about eight
or nine feet high, and was, I suppose, higher, when there was no rubbish
in the area.
This Castle corresponds with all the representations of romancing
narratives. Here is not
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