There were with us Gilpin[1173] and Parker[1174]. Having heard of this
place before, I had formed some imperfect idea, to which it did not
answer. Brown[1175] says he was disappointed. I certainly expected a
larger river where I found only a clear quick brook. I believe I had
imaged a valley enclosed by rocks, and terminated by a broad expanse
of water.

He that has seen Dovedale has no need to visit the Highlands.

In the afternoon we visited old Mrs. Dale.

JULY 17.

Sunday morning, at church.

Afternoon, at Mr. Diot's.

JULY 18.

Dined at Mr. Gell's[1176].

JULY 19.

We went to Kedleston[1177] to see Lord Scarsdale's new house, which is
very costly, but ill contrived. The hall is very stately, lighted by
three skylights; it has two rows of marble pillars, dug, as I hear from
Langley, in a quarry of Northamptonshire; the pillars are very large and
massy, and take up too much room; they were better away. Behind the hall
is a circular saloon, useless, and therefore ill contrived.

The corridors that join the wings to the body are mere passages through
segments of circles. The state bed-chamber was very richly furnished.
The dining parlour was more splendid with gilt plate than any that I
have seen. There were many pictures. The grandeur was all below. The
bedchambers were small, low, dark, and fitter for a prison than a house
of splendour. The kitchen has an opening into the gallery, by which its
heat and its fumes are dispersed over the house. There seemed in the
whole more cost than judgment.

We went then to the silk mill at Derby[1178], where I remarked a
particular manner of propagating motion from a horizontal to a
vertical wheel.

We were desired to leave the men only two shillings. Mr. Thrale's bill
at the inn for dinner was eighteen shillings and tenpence.

At night I went to Mr. Langley's, Mrs. Wood's, Captain Astle, &c.

JULY 20.

We left Ashbourn and went to Buxton, thence to Pool's Hole, which is
narrow at first, but then rises into a high arch; but is so obstructed
with crags, that it is difficult to walk in it. There are two ways to
the end, which is, they say, six hundred and fifty yards from the mouth.
They take passengers up the higher way, and bring them back the lower.
The higher way was so difficult and dangerous, that, having tried it, I
desisted. I found no level part.

At night we came to Macclesfield, a very large town in Cheshire, little
known. It has a silk mill: it has