ging sleeves, you will find a very plain-cut overcoat,
with sleeves comfortably wide, and with little plain lapels to the
collar. It is cut wide enough in the back to allow for the spread of
the tunic. Black velvet is becoming a very fashionable trimming, and
will be seen as a border or as under-vest to show between the shirt
and the tunic. No clothes of the last reign will be incongruous in
this; the very short tunics which expose the cod-piece, the
split-sleeve tunic, all the variations, I have described. Judges walk
about, looking like gentlemen of the time of Richard II.: a judge
wears a long loose gown, with wide sleeves, from out of which appear
the sleeves of his under-tunic, buttoned from elbow to wrist; he wears
a cloak with a hood, the cloak split up the right side, and fastened
by three buttons upon the right shoulder. A doctor is in very plain,
ample gown, with a cape over his shoulders and a small round cap on
his head. His gown is not bound at the waist.

[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF RICHARD III. (1483-1485)

Here one sees the first of the broad-toed shoes and the birth of the
Tudor costume--the full pleated skirts and the prominence of white
shirt.]

The blunt shoes have come into fashion, and with this the old
long-peaked shoe dies for ever. Common-sense will show you that the
gentlemen who had leisure to hunt in these times did not wear their
most foppish garments, that the tunics were plain, the boots high, the
cloaks of strong material. They wore a hunting-hat, with a long
peak over the eyes and a little peak over the neck at the back; a
broad band passed under the chin, and, buttoning on to either side of
the hat, kept it in place. The peasant wore a loose tunic, often
open-breasted and laced across; he had a belt about his waist, a hood
over his head, and often a broad-brimmed Noah's Ark hat over the hood;
his slops, or loose trousers, were tied below the knee and at the
ankles. A shepherd would stick his pipe in his belt, so that he might
march before his flock, piping them into the fold.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Edward V. and Richard III.;
a hat}]

To sum up, you must picture a man in a dress of Edward IV.'s time,
modified, or, rather, expanded or expanding into the costume of Henry
VII.'s time--a reign, in fact, which hardly has a distinct costume to
itself--that is, for the men--but has a hand stretched out to two
centuries, the fifteenth and the sixteen