at the shoulder, and hanging over
the hand in folds. The slashes, which show the white shirt, are usual,
and of every order. The shirt itself was often ornamented with fine
gathers and fancy stitching, and was gathered about the neck by a
ribbon. As the years went on it is easy to see that the shirt was worn
nearer to the neck, the gathers became higher and higher, became
more ornamented, and finally rose, in all extravagant finery, to
behind the ears--and we have the Elizabethan ruff.

[Illustration: COATS--HATS]

Next to the shirt a waistcoat, or stomacher, of the most gorgeous
patterned stuff, laced across the breast sometimes, more often fastened
behind. This reached to the waist where it met long hose of every scheme
of colour--striped, dotted, divided in bands--everything--displaying the
indelicate but universal pouch in front, tied with coloured ribbons.

On the feet, shoes of all materials, from cloth and velvet to leather
beautifully worked, and of the most absurd length; these also were
slashed with puffs of white stuff. Many of these shoes were but a sole
and a toe, and were tied on by thongs passing through the sole.

Of course the long coat would not alone satisfy the dandy, but he must
needs cut it off into a short jacket, or petti-cote, and leave it open
to better display his marvellous vest. Here we have the origin of the
use of the word 'petticoat'--now wrongly applied; in Scotland, to this
day, a woman's skirts are called her 'coats.'

About the waists of these coats was a short sash, or a girdle, from
which hung a very elaborate purse, or a dagger.

Stick in hand, jewel in your hat, dandy--extravagant, exquisite dandy!
All ages know you, from the day you choose your covering of leaves
with care, to the hour of your white duck motoring-suit: a very bird
of a man, rejoicing in your plumage, a very human ass, a very narrow
individual, you stride, strut, simper through the story of the
universe, a perfect monument of the Fall of Man, a gorgeous symbol of
the decay of manhood. In this our Henry's reign, your hair busheth
pleasantly, and is kembed prettily over the ear, where it glimmers as
gold i' the sun--pretty fellow--Lord! how your feathered bonnet
becomes you, and your satin stomacher is brave over a padded chest.
Your white hands, freed from any nasty brawls and clean of any form of
work, lie in their embroidered gloves. Your pride forbids the carriage
of a sword, which is borne behind you--m