he shameful conduct of the English,
in pressing in and out of the chapel, occupying all the seats,
irreverently interrupting the service, and almost excluding the
natives, the anthem will not be sung in future.

This is not the first time that the behaviour of the English has
created offence, in spite of the friendly feeling which exists towards
us, and the allowances which are made for our national character. Last
year the pope objected to the indecent custom of making St. Peter's a
place of fashionable rendezvous, and notified to Cardinal Gonsalvi his
desire that English ladies and gentlemen should not be seen arm in arm
walking up and down the aisles, during and after divine service. The
cardinal, as the best means of proceeding, spoke to the Duchess of
Devonshire, who signified the wishes of the Papal Court to a large
party, assembled at her house. The hint so judiciously and so
delicately given, was at the time attended to, and during a short
interval the offence complained of ceased. New comers have since
recommenced the same course of conduct: and in fact, nothing _could_
be worse than the exhibition of gaiety and frivolity, gallantry and
coquetterie at St. Peter's yesterday. I almost wish the pope may
interfere, and with rigour; though, individually, I should lose a high
gratification, if our visits to St. Peter's were interdicted. It is
surely most ill-judged and unfeeling (to say nothing of the
_profanation_, for such it is), to show such open contempt for the
Roman Catholic religion in its holiest, grandest temple, and under the
very eyes of the head of that church. I blushed for my countrywomen.

* * * * *

On Christmas Eve we went in a large party to visit some of the
principal churches, and witness the celebration of the Nativity; one
of the most splendid ceremonies of the Romish Church. We arrived at
the chapel of Monte Cavallo about half-past nine; but the pope being
ill and absent, nothing particular was going forward; and we left it
to proceed to the San Luigi dei Francesi, where we found the church
hung from the floor to the ceiling with garlands of flowers, blazing
with light, and resounding with heavenly music: but the crowd was
intolerable, the people dirty, and there was such an effluence of
strong perfumes, in which garlic predominated, that our physical
sensations overcame our curiosity: and we were glad to make our
escape. We then proceeded to the church of the