sea; on
the other the broad train of fierce red light glared upon the water
with a fitful splendour, as the explosions were more or less violent:
before me all was so soft, so lovely, so tranquil! while I had only to
turn my head to be awe-struck by the convulsion of fighting elements.

I remember, that on our first arrival at Naples, I was disappointed
because Vesuvius did not smoke so much as I had been led to expect
from pictures and descriptions. The smoke then lay like a scarcely
perceptible cloud on the highest point, or rose in a slender white
column; to-day and yesterday, it has rolled from the crater in black
volumes, mixing with the clouds above, and darkening the sky.

_Half-past twelve._--I have walked out again: the blaze from the
crater is less vivid; but there are now four streams of lava issuing
from it, which have united in two broad currents, one of which extends
below the hermitage. It is probable that by to-morrow night it will
have reached the lower part of the mountain.

_Sunday, 24._--Just returned from chapel at the English ambassador's,
where the service was read by a dandy clergyman to a crowd of fine and
superfine ladies and gentlemen, crushed together into a hot room. I
never saw extravagance in dress carried to such a pitch as it is by my
countrywomen here,--whether they dress at the men or against each
other, it is equally bad taste. The sermon to-day was very
appropriate, from the text, "_Take ye no thought what ye shall eat, or
what ye shall drink, or what ye shall put on_," and, I dare say, it
was listened to with singular edification.

_5 o'clock._--We have been driving along the Strada Nuova in L**'s
britschka, whence we had a fine view of Vesuvius. There are tremendous
bursts of smoke from the crater. At one time the whole mountain, down
to the very base, was almost enveloped, and the atmosphere round it
loaded with the vapour, which seemed to issue in volumes half as
large as the mountain itself. If horses are to be had we go up
to-night.

_Monday night._--I am not in a humour to describe, or give way to any
poetical flights, but I must endeavour to give a faithful, sober, and
circumstantial account of our last night's expedition, while the
impression is yet fresh on my mind; though there is, I think, little
danger of my forgetting. We procured horses, which, from the number of
persons proceeding on the same errand with ourselves, was a matter of
some difficulty. We set out at