ith plumes of
feathers, and led by grotesque masks. In the carriage stood twelve
persons in black silk dominos, black hats, and black masks; with
plumes of crimson feathers, and rich crimson sashes. They were armed
with small painted targets and tin tubes, from which they shot vollies
of confetti, in such quantities, and with such dexterous aim, that we
were almost overwhelmed whenever we passed them. It was in vain we
returned the compliment; our small shot rattled on their masks, or
bounded from their shields, producing only shouts of laughter at our
expense.

A favourite style of mask here, is the dress of an English sailor,
straw hats, blue jackets, white trowsers, and very white masks with
pink cheeks: we saw hundreds in this whimsical costume.

13.--On driving home rather late this evening, and leaving the noise,
the crowds, the confusion and festive folly of the Strada di Toledo,
we came suddenly upon a scene, which, from its beauty, no less than by
the force of contrast, strongly impressed my imagination. The shore
was silent, and almost solitary: the bay as smooth as a mirror, and as
still as a frozen lake; the sky, the sea, the mountains round were all
of the same hue, a soft grey tinged with violet, except where the
sunset had left a narrow crimson streak along the edge of the sea.
There was not a breeze, not the slightest breath of air, and a single
vessel, a frigate with all its white sails crowded, lay motionless as
a monument on the bosom of the waters, in which it was reflected as in
a mirror. I have seen the bay more splendidly beautiful; but I never
saw so peculiar, so lovely a picture. It lasted but a short time: the
transparent purple veil became a dusky pall, and night and shadow
gradually enveloped the whole.[K]

* * * * *

How I love these resplendent skies and blue seas! Nature here seems to
celebrate a continual Festa, and to be for ever decked out in holiday
costume! A drive along the "_sempre beata Mergellina_" to the
extremity of the Promontory of Pausilippo is positive enchantment:
thence we looked over a landscape of such splendid and unequalled
interest! the shores of Baia, where Cicero, Horace, Virgil, Pliny,
Mecaenas, lived; the white towers of Puzzuoli and the Islands of
Ischia, Procida, and Nisida. There was the Sybil's Cave, Lake Acheron,
and the fabled Lethe; there the sepulchre of Misenus, who defied the
Triton; and the scene of the whole sixth