seven in the evening in an open
carriage, and almost the whole way we had the mountain before us,
spouting fire to a prodigious height. The road was crowded with groups
of people who had come out from the city and environs to take a nearer
view of the magnificent spectacle, and numbers were hurrying to and
fro in those little flying _corricoli_ which are peculiar to Naples.
As we approached, the explosions became more and more vivid, and at
every tremendous burst of fire our friend L** jumped half off his
seat, making most loud and characteristic exclamations,--"By Jove! a
magnificent fellow! now for it, whizz! there he goes, sky high, by
George!" The rest of the party were equally enthusiastic in a
different style; and I sat silent and quiet from absolute inability to
express what I felt. I was almost breathless with wonder, and
excitement, and impatience to be nearer the scene of action. While my
eyes were fixed on the mountain, my attention was, from time to time,
excited by regular rows of small shining lights, six or eight in
number, creeping, as it seemed, along the edge of the stream of lava;
and, when contrasted with the red blaze which rose behind, and the
gigantic black back-ground, looking like a procession of glowworms.
These were the torches of travellers ascending the mountain, and I
longed to be one of them.

We reached Resina a little before nine, and alighted from the
carriage; the ascent being so rugged and dangerous, that only asses
and mules accustomed to the road are used. Two only were in waiting at
the moment we arrived, which L** immediately secured for me and
himself; and though reluctant to proceed without the rest of the
party, we were compelled to go on before, that we might not lose time,
or hazard the loss of our _monture_. We set off then, each with two
attendants, a man to lead our animals and a torch-bearer. The road, as
we ascended, became more and more steep at every step, being over a
stream of lava, intermixed with stones and ashes, and the darkness
added to the difficulty. But how shall I describe the scene and the
people who surrounded us; the landscape partially lighted by a fearful
red glare, the precipitous and winding road bordered by wild looking
gigantic aloes, projecting their huge spear-like leaves almost across
our path, and our lazzaroni attendants with their shrill shouts, and
strange dresses, and wild jargon, and striking features, and dark
eyes flashing in the gleam