:
for we found it extremely difficult to procure any thing to eat. The
next town is Avversa, a name unknown, I believe, in the classical
history of Italy: it was founded, if I remember rightly, by the Norman
knights. Near this place is or was the convent where Queen Joanna
strangled her husband Andrea, with a silken cord of her own weaving.
So says the story: _non lo credo io_.

From Avversa to Naples the country is not interesting; but fertile and
rich beyond description: an endless succession of vineyards and orange
groves. At length we reached Naples; all tired and in a particularly
sober and serious mood: we remembered it was the Sabbath, and had
forgotten that it was the first day of the Carnival; and great was our
amazement at the scene which met us on our arrival--

I looked, I stared, I smiled, I laughed: and all
The weight of sadness was in wonder lost.

The whole city seemed one vast puppet-show; and the noisy gaiety of
the crowded streets almost stunned me. One of the first objects we
encountered was a barouche full of Turks and Sultanas, driven by an
old woman in a tawdry court dress as coachman; while a merry-andrew
and a harlequin capered behind as footmen. Owing to the immense size
of the city, and the difficulty of making our way through the motley
throng of masks, beggars, lazzaroni, eating-stalls, carts and
carriages, we were nearly three hours traversing the streets before we
reached our inn on the Chiaja.

I feel tired and over-excited: I have been standing on my balcony
looking out upon the moonlit bay, and listening to the mingled shouts,
the laughter, the music all around me; and thinking--till I feel in no
mood to write.

* * * * *

7.--Last night we visited the theatre of San Carlo. It did not strike
me as equal to the Scala at Milan. The form is not so fine, the extent
of the stage is, or appeared to be, less; but there is infinitely more
gilding and ornament; the mirrors and lights, the sky-blue draperies
produce a splendid effect, and the coup-d'oeil is, on the whole,
more gay, more theatre-like. It was crowded in every part, and many of
the audience were in dominos and fancy dresses: a few were masked.
Rossini's Barbiere di Seviglia, which contains, I think more _melody_
than all his other operas put together, (the Tancredi perhaps
excepted,) was most enchantingly sung, and as admirably acted; and the
beautiful classical ballet of "Niobe and her