, but the colours vary to the eye by the admixture of
minerals. Groups of sandstone are not uncommon. Rounded, rugged heads,
vary the outline of the plateau; and here and there are deep, abrupt
valleys, cut down through the range, with groves of fig-trees, almonds,
aloes, pomegranates, and even grapes, nestling in their laps. Bright
water-courses, springing up in the depths of these ravines, sustain the
streaks of half-buried verdure.

We rose early to commence the ascent. It is not difficult unless the
camels are very heavily laden; but we did not reach the Castle of
Gharian until three in the afternoon. Our caravan dotted with groups of
various outline and colour the slopes of the spur, up the side of which
the track wound, in a very picturesque manner. Sometimes the foremost
camels stood still and complained; and then there was a half-halt
throughout the whole long line. The drivers plied the stick pretty
freely on the gaunt flanks of their beasts; the cry of "_Isa! Isa!_"
resounded in irregular chorus; pebbles and stones came leaping down at
the steep parts. As we rose over the brown slopes, the thin forests of
olive-trees partly covering the undulating plateau beyond, with fields
of barley and wheat here and there, gladdened our eyes, and contrasted
well with the hungry country we had left in the rear.

The castle, sufficiently picturesque in structure, is placed over a deep
ravine, but is commanded by the mountain behind. We turned back on
nearing it, and beheld the plain we had traversed appearing like the sea
enveloped in mist and cloud. In fine weather the minarets of Tripoli can
be seen, but now the northern horizon faded off in haze. On either hand
the steep declivities of the hills presented a wall-like surface, here
and there battered into breaches, from out of which burst little tufts
of green, revealing the presence of springs.

There are 200 troops stationed at the castle under Colonel Saleh, to
whom we paid an official visit; as also to the Kaid of Gharian. In both
cases we were hospitably treated to pipes, coffee, and lemonade. In this
canton are said to be the fanciful number of "one hundred and one" Arab
districts, inhabited by the Troglodytes. All the villages, indeed,
hereabouts, are underground: not a building is to be seen above, except
at wide intervals an old miserable, crumbling, Arab fort. The people are
easily kept in order by the summary Turkish method of proceeding; for
they are entirely