disarmed, and matchlocks, powder and ball, are
contraband articles. The first word of an Oriental tax-gatherer is
"Pay!" and the second is "Kill!"

The outset of a journey in the East is usually employed in finding out
the vices of one's servants. Their virtues, I suppose, become manifest
afterwards. We were on the point of sending our chaouch back from
Gharian for dishonesty; but as we reflected that any substitute might be
still worse, we passed over the robbery of our barley, and merely
determined to keep a good look-out. This worthy, though useful in his
sphere, often, as I had anticipated, proved a sad annoyance to us. When
he seemed to refrain from cheating and stealing, he rendered our lives
troublesome by constant quarrellings and rows--he and his fellow
attached to my German companions--_Arcades ambo!_

Mr. Frederick Warrington and the American Consul took leave of us on the
morning of the 5th. Starting afterwards about nine, we soon left the
Castle of Gharian behind, and continued our course in a direction about
south-west, amongst olive-woods and groves of fig-trees. The country was
varied enough in appearance as we proceeded. Great masses of rock and
cultivated slopes alternated. The vegetation seemed all fresh, and
sometimes vigorous. Few birds, except wild pigeons, appeared. Many of
the heights which we passed were crowned with ruined castles, mementoes
of the past dominion of the Arabs. We saw some of the Troglodytes coming
from underground now and then, and pausing to look at us. Their dress is
a simple barracan, or blanket-mantle, thrown around them; few indulge in
the luxury of a shirt; and they go armed with a great thick stick
terminating in a hook. They look cleanly and healthy in spite of their
burrowing life, but are fox-like in character as in manners, and bear a
reputation for dishonesty.

A little after mid-day we descried afar off the village of Kaleebah,
which is built above-ground, and occupies a most commanding position on
a bold mountain-top. It remained in sight ahead a long time, cheating us
with an appearance of nearness. The inhabitants resemble, in all
respects, their mole-brethren, and occupy themselves chiefly in
cultivating olives and barley. Government exacts from them two
imposts--one special, of a hundred and fifty mahboubs on the
olive-crops; and one general, of five hundred mahboubs. We passed the
village at length, and encamped an hour beyond. Here were the last
olive-gro