hills changes, and they are composed chiefly of variegated marl mixed
with gypsum, and with a covering of limestone. Fossil shells were picked
up at intervals. Some huge, irregular masses, that appeared ahead during
the first day, were mistaken by us for the edge of the plateau; but we
broke through, and left them right and left as we proceeded. They are
great masses of limestone and red clay, in which are scooped deep
valleys, many of them supplied with abundant herbage. As yet we have
never attained a level of more than 2500 feet above the level of the
sea. Water must exist underground, if we may argue from the presence of
the aoudad and the gazelle. Indeed, out of the line of route, amongst
the hills, there are wells and Arab tents. The presence of Roman remains
reminds us that the country has seen more prosperous times. We encamped
on the 11th in a wady, overlooked by the ruins of a mausoleum, which had
assumed colossal proportions in the distance. Some Berber letters were
carved upon its walls; probably by Tuaricks, who had formerly inhabited
the district.

One of our blacks this day killed a lefa, the most dangerous species of
snake; and several thobs or lizards were caught. The greyhound of the
Fezzanee also ran down a hare. Next day it procured us a gazelle; but
with these exceptions were seen only ground-larks, and what we call in
Lincolnshire water-wagtails.

It is worth mentioning that at this place our chaouch sprained his
ankle, and Dr. Overweg applied spirits of camphor as lotion. This
terrible fellow, this huge swaggerer, this eater-up of ordinary timid
mortals, was reduced to the meekness of a lamb by his slight accident;
and for the first time since the caravan was blessed with his presence
did he remain tranquil, breathing out from time to time a soft
complaint. In the course of the day he had contrived to make himself
particularly disagreeable. First he fell out with the servant of the
Germans, Mahommed of Tunis. Then he quarrelled with us all, because he
picked up a blanket for somebody and was refused his modest demand of
three piastres as a reward. We are heartily glad that he is tamed for
awhile.

On the 12th, shortly after we started, I happened to look behind and
saw, coming from the west, some clouds that seemed to give promise of
rain. Already I felt the air cooled by anticipation, but was soon
undeceived. In the course of an hour a gheblee began to blow, and
continued to increase in violen