stubble of last year's crop of barley,
in irregular patches, told us that when there is copious rain the Arabs
come to these parts for agricultural purposes. We noticed the English
hedge-thorn here and there, and thought of the green lanes of our native
land.
Nine hours' journey brought us to the valley of Amjam, where there was a
khafilah of senna encamped among the trees. Water--rather bitter,
however--may be found here in shallow excavations; and the whole place,
with its patches of herbage, is highly refreshing to the eye.
There are two new trees in this wady, both interesting; the _Ghurdok_
and the _Ajdaree_. The _ghurdok_, on which the camels browse, is a large
bush with great thorns, and bears a red berry about the size of our hip,
or, as the marabout says, of sheep's dung. People eat these berries and
find them good, with a saltish, bitter taste, and yet a dash of
sweetness. The _ajdaree_ is also a thorny bush, and at a distance
something reminds one of the English hedge-thorn. On a nearer approach
the leaves are found to be oval and filbert-shaped. The berry, called
_thomakh_, is nearly as large as haws, but flatted at the sides: it is
used medicinally, being a powerful astringent in diarrhoea.
When the moon was two days old our people practised a little of the
ancient Sabaeanism of the Arabs--saluting it by kissing their hands, and
offering a short prayer.
On the 15th we at length sighted the edge of the plateau of the Hamadah;
and pushing on still through desert hills and valleys, arrived at Wady
Tabooneeah, having been _en route_ four days from Mizdah. This valley is
not so fertile as Amjam; and the water is more bitter. Common salt, the
companion of gypsum, was observed to-day; and wherever this is found
there are bitter salts. Swallows were skimming over the shrubs, and
birds of prey hovered about, now lying-to, as it were, overhead, with
beak and talons visible, now circling upwards until they became mere
specks. Lizards and beetles abounded as usual; but the only plagues of
the place were the flies, which had followed the camels from Gharian,
and even from Tripoli. Men usually carry their "black cares" along with
them in this way.
As we could not expect to commence the traject of the dreaded plateau
immediately, I resolved to go upon a visit to the village of Western
Ghareeah. The camel-drivers of the caravan, of course, told us that it
was at the distance of one hour--_Saha bas!_ but we found
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