nd far in the interior. The vital principle of
civilisation seems to have exhausted itself in those parts.

I was now in a country comparatively familiar to me, and knew that I had
but one more ride to reach the capital of Fezzan. Rising early on the
6th, therefore, I determined to press on in advance of the caravan; and
starting with warm weather, puffs of wind coming now from the
south-east, now from the north-west, very unsteadily--the atmosphere was
slightly murky, with sand flying about--I soon came in sight of the
palm-groves of Mourzuk, without making any other rencontre than a
Tuarick coursing over the desert in full costume. The old castle peeped
picturesquely through the trees, but I had still a good way to go before
reaching shelter. The sand and white earth that form the surface of the
oasis near the town were painfully dazzling to my eyes.

At length I reached the suburbs, where a few people stared curiously at
me. My arrival had been announced by the chaouches, who had gone on
about a quarter of an hour before; and at the eastern gate the soldiers
allowed me to pass without notice, or any allusion to _gumruk_. Mr.
Gagliuffi had come out to meet me; but having taken a different gate we
crossed, and I arrived on my camel at his house, and found it empty. My
veil being down in the streets I was recognised by no one. The acting
Governor had arranged to meet me with twenty horsemen, but I had taken
them all quite unawares. The letters forwarded requesting us to make a
halt in the suburbs, and then advance slowly in "holiday costume," for
the sake of effect, had not reached me. However, they had hoisted the
Ottoman flag on the castle, in honour of our expected arrival,--a
compliment that had not before been paid to strangers, and one never
offered at Tripoli.

Our German friends arrived shortly afterwards, and we all had a very
hospitable reception from Mr. Gagliuffi, with whom we lodged. A few
calls were made upon us in the evening, but we were glad enough to seek
our beds. Next day the chief people of the city, the Kady and other
dignitaries, began early to visit us. When we had exchanged compliments
with them, we went in full European dress to wait on the acting Pasha.
We found him to be a very quiet, unassuming man, who gave us a most kind
and gentlemanlike reception, equal to anything of the kind of Tripoli.
He is a Turk, and recognised me as having been before at Mourzuk. We had
coffee, pipes, and sherbe