e
open shops on either side reminding you very much of Constantinople. The
population is immense, the streets are always crowded. We soon found
that we were objects of attention, and were followed by a mob. It was
with difficulty that we could force our way; and, moreover, the town
having been lately evacuated by our troops, the Chinese thought
themselves secure in venting their animosity, by pushing, jostling, and
throwing stones at us. In this, however, they were mistaken, for being a
tolerably strong party, and knowing that they had a very wholesome fear
of us, we were not slow in resorting to blows when intreaties proved in
vain; and, before we were in the middle of the town, more than one
celestial head had come in contact with the pavement. One had the
impudence to bellow in my face; for which impertinence he received a
facer, which gave him something to bellow for. Those, however, who
"were at a distance had the means of annoying with impunity, and we were
glad to take refuge in a pastry cook's shop, which happened most
opportunely to present itself.

[Illustration: COOK'S SHOP.]

On our entering, we were each presented with a pair of chop sticks, and
a large tray was placed before us, filled with sweetmeats of every
description. There were nutmegs and other spices, ginger, sugar cane,
bamboo, and the knee-bone palm, preserved in the most exquisite manner.
Every thing was so novel, chop sticks not excepted, that it was quite
fearful the extent to which we indulged in the sweetmeats; however, as
we had no maiden aunts ready with their doses, as in our infancy, we ate
and spared not. Cakes of the most recherche description, and pastry, the
lightness of which would have shamed Gunter, were each and all in their
turn discussed; and what was our astonishment to find that, on calling
for the bill, the charge amounted to about sixpence.

We visited as much of the town as the mob would permit, but I shall
reserve my description of a genuine Chinese town until our arrival to
the northward. The joss-houses at Amoy are not remarkable, and one
description of these buildings will suffice for all.

We lay at Amoy for about a week, during which the Mandarins paid us a
full dress visit. They were extremely cautious, and remained on board
for a couple of hours. At their departure we gave them the economical
Chinese salute of three guns. During our stay here I amused myself
principally on the island of Ku-lang-so, and I was no