t sorry when we
weighed anchor, and, with a fair wind, made sail for Chusan.

Chusan is the largest of a closely packed group of islands, near to the
main land of China, and about 500 miles to the northward of Amoy. These
islands, many of them very diminutive, are so close to each other, that
on threading them to approach the town of Chusan, the channel wears the
appearance of a small river branching out into every direction. If the
leading marks were removed it would be a complete marine labyrinth, and
a boat might pull and pull in and out for the whole day, without
arriving at its destination. Narrow, however, as is the passage, with a
due precaution, and the necessary amount of backing and filling, there
is sufficient water for ships of the largest size. At sunset we anchored
off the town of Chusan. Here the islands form a beautiful little
harbour, sufficiently capacious. The island being covered with tea
plants, the panorama is pretty and refreshing. From the anchorage little
can be seen of the town, as it is built on a flat, and hidden by a
parapet and bank of mud, which runs along the bottom of the harbour.
This temporary fortification is called a bund, and was erected by the
Chinese previous to the capture of the place. Behind this bund is an
esplanade, parallel with which are houses, which serve as barracks for
the troops, and the residences of the civil and military functionaries.
The country is hilly, and several commanding forts are visible from the
anchorage.

On landing, we directed our steps to the town by a causeway which leads
from the landing-place to the gates between the fields of paddy, which
are, as usual, swamped with water. The sides of this causeway are lined
with shops; and the island being occupied by the English, soon stared
you in the face, in the shape of boards in front of each shop, bearing
such inscriptions as "Snip, from Pekin," "Stultz, from Ningpo," and
others equally ludicrous, in good English letters. There were
"Buckmasters" and "Hobys" innumerable; Licensed Victuallers and "Dealers
in Grocery." Passing a tolerably well constructed gate, guarded by an
English sentry, we entered the town. The streets are cleaner than those
of Amoy, and not so narrow; but what gave us most satisfaction was, that
our appearance excited no attention; and we enjoyed our walk, and made
our observations uninterruptedly.

Our first visit was to a toy-shop: a great many articles were exposed
for sale, and