many very beautiful carvings; they were, however, far too
delicate for a midshipman's chest, and the price did not exactly suit a
midshipman's pocket. A silk warehouse next occupied our attention: here
we were shown some beautiful embroidery, some of which was purchased.
After walking over the whole town, we proceeded to the principal
joss-house: this was very handsome; but I was sorry that it had been
selected as a barrack, and was occupied by a company of sepoys. The
altar was converted into a stand for arms, and the god Fo was accoutred
with a sheath and cross belt. To complete the absurdity, a green demon
before the altar was grinning maliciously from under the weight of a
frieze coat. At the entrance of the joss-house is a covered porch, under
which are two figures sitting, and in this posture nearly twenty feet
high. The interior of the house is handsomely ornamented and gilt; and
behind the altar there is a row of some fifteen figures, in a sitting
posture, all gilt from head to foot, and forming a very goodly assembly:
they represented old men wrapped in togas, with faces expressive of
instruction, revelation, and wisdom. There was nothing Chinese in their
features; the heads were shaved, and it is to be presumed that they
represented the prophets and holy writers who flourished antecedent to
the great Fo. The expression on their countenances was admirable; and
surprised us the more, from a knowledge how fond the Chinese are of
filling their temples with unnatural and unmeaning devils.
We then visited a smaller god-house: this the 8th regiment had converted
into a theatre. Very little traces of a holy temple were discernible;
and the great Fo occupied a corner of the green-room. The scenes were
painted in fresco, and the whole affair was very tolerably arranged.
Most part of the scenery had been painted by my brother during his stay
at this port in the Cambrian. The Chinamen consider this no sacrilege,
as they always use the temples as theatres themselves.
During the winter months Chusan is very cold, and the snow lies on the
ground. The country there abounds with game--deer, swans, partridges,
pheasants, and wild fowl of every description: the prices are very
moderate; a fine buck may be purchased for a dollar, and a brace of
pheasants for a rupee. It was now the month of May, and the swans and
geese had departed, and game was becoming scarce as the weather became
fine; still, however, there was a duck or so
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