left H. M. S. Samarang at this port, and joined the Iris, commanded by
Captain Mundy, whose high character as an officer and a gentleman I well
knew; unfortunately I was only lent to the Iris, and the consequence
was, as will be seen, I had ultimately to return to the Samarang. I
found that the Iris was to sail for the north coast of China, and I was
delighted at the idea of visiting those parts, which there was little
chance of if I had remained in the Samarang.

[Illustration: CHINESE FISHERMEN.]

One object of the Iris proceeding to the coast of China was to carry
General D'Aguilar and suite on a visit to the most interesting of the
hostage ports. We sailed on the 6th of April, and after a week's beating
arrived at Chapel Island, at the mouth of Amoy bay. This bay is very
spacious, being nearly thirty miles deep. To the left of the entrance is
a high peak, on the summit of which is built a splendid pagoda, serving
as a landmark to vessels coming from seaward. The town of Amoy is built
at the bottom of the bay. Close to it, and forming an inner harbour, is
the island of Ku-lang-so, near to which we dropped our anchor.
Ku-lang-so is a pretty island, about a mile in diameter. Up to the
evacuation of Amoy it had been occupied by our troops; and the remains
of a race course and a theatre prove that the gallant 18th had contrived
to amuse themselves. At the present time it is all but deserted, the
only European residents being Mr. Sullivan, the Vice Consul; the
Chinese, who had been driven from it at the capture of the city, not
having as yet returned. The houses on it are prettily disposed, and some
rich foliage and green pasture give an English character to the scenery,
and are very refreshing, after continually looking at the everlasting
paddy fields, which constitute the principal features of the sea coast
of China. It is to this circumstance that I ascribe the exaggerated
accounts we have of the beauty of the island of Ku-lang-so. It forms,
however, a very pleasant promenade, and may be enjoyed without
interruption from the inhabitants. The city of Amoy is built on a low
neck of land. The houses are of a dusky tint, and from the anchorage are
indistinguishable through forests of junks' masts, which surround the
town. To the right of the town, and extending to some distance, is a
fortified wall, which gave some trouble at the capture. I landed with a
party to walk through the city. The streets are narrow and dirty, th