intervals exploded, and occasionally
a tumbler would perform some feat, but I felt little interest in the
performance, and kept my eyes on the gallery containing the ladies,
among whom I saw one or two very pretty faces.

The wall round Ningpo is built wide enough for a carriage drive. It has
embrasures, but no guns were mounted. By ascending some steps near to
the town gate we found ourselves on the top of the wall, and walked half
round the town on the parapet. It was very extensive, and, as far as the
eye could reach, the plain was studded with country houses of a slate
colour.

I forgot to mention that while here we visited a sect of Chinese nuns or
female devotees. They were assembled in a large room, at one end of
which was an image of the god Fo. Each nun was seated at a small table
on which was a reading stand and a book of prayers. They were all
reading, and at the same time beating a hollow painted piece of wood:
the latter duty was, we were informed, to keep up the attention of the
god. What with them all gabbling at once, and the tapping noise made
with the wood, god Fo appeared more likely to have his attention
distracted than otherwise. However, it was of no consequence, as Fo was
one of that description of gods mentioned in the Bible, among whose
attributes we find, "Ears have they, but they hear not."

We remained here a week, and I was much interested with what I saw; but
so much has already been written about the Chinese, that I wish to
confine myself to what may be considered unbroken ground. As the time
fixed for our departure approached, we determined to go to Chinghae
overland, in chairs. Taking a farewell of our kind and hospitable host,
Mr. Mackenzie, we each took a chair, and took our departure. The road
was interesting, being at one time through tea plantations, and at
another through paddy fields. Our bearers were strong muscular fellows,
and thought little of carrying us twenty-five miles. We passed crowds of
Chinamen irrigating the land, and working in the paddy fields. In some
instances they favoured us with a salute of yells and stones; and as we
approached Chinghae, the unwashed vented their feelings in some very
unpleasant ways. In the town we were followed by a mob; and by the time
we had reached the quay, and procured a boat to take us off to the ship,
the whole town had turned out. Tapping one or two of the most officious
with the bamboo oars, we managed to shove the boat off, and p