and happy little colony. Many officers of an inferior grade
reside here, holding appointments either in the fort, gaol, or the gun
boats. These people and their wives are Mestichas (or half-breed), and
it is among them and their families that some of the prettiest women in
the Asiatic archipelago may be found.
Our first object after we were on shore was to procure horses, that we
might have a view of the country, as far as prudence would admit. We
were surprised at starting to find such fine roads, lined with gardens
and cottages, embowered in groves of cocoa-nut, bananas, and bamboos.
Where the road was not shaded, arches of wood were raised to protect
passengers from the heat of the sun. The whole country was alive with
natives, dressed in every variety of colour, and sledges drawn by water
buffaloes, carrying fruit, vegetables, and Indian corn. We put our
horses to a swift canter, and passed through many villages, all in
appearance as populous, as thriving, and as happy as Samboangan. At last
we arrived at an open plain, covered with cattle, and bounded by the
mountains in the distance. We remained some time admiring and sketching;
the inhabitants showed us every kindness, and were more courteous in
their demeanour than might be expected from their isolation from the
rest of the world.
On our return, we stopped at a little shop by the road side, close to
the town. It contained fruit, grain, and tobacco; but ascertaining that
coffee and chocolate could be had here, we ordered some of the latter,
which proved to be excellent, and moderate in price. This little shop,
for want of an hotel, became our principal rendezvous during our stay
here.
About nightfall, as we were strolling through the town, we were
attracted by the sounds of music in an adjoining street. We altered our
course accordingly, and on arrival at a large thatched house, perceived
through the open windows that it was filled with musicians and dancers.
We were immediately observed, and the owner of the house, in the most
courteous manner, and in tolerable English, requested us to enter, which
request we immediately complied with. We imagined that it was a ball,
perhaps a wedding; but what was our surprise on entering to see a table
in the middle of the room, on which was placed a dead child! It was
neatly dressed, and ornamented with flowers, looking more like a wax
doll than a corpse. The ball, we were informed, was given in honour of
its funeral.
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