ith their loads, which are ticketed off by the master
of the scales.

The scene is altogether very Dutch and very interesting; and one should
make a point of crossing the canal to get a general view of the market,
with the river craft in the foreground, the bustling dealers behind,
and above all the elaborate tower and facade of the Weigh House.

Alkmaar otherwise is not of great interest. It has a large light
church, bare and bleak according to custom, with very attractive green
curtains against its whitewash, in which, according to the author
of _Through Noord-Holland_, is a tomb containing "the entrails of
Count Florence the Fifth". Here also is a model of one of De Ruyter's
ships. Alkmaar also possesses a charming Oude Mannen en Oude Vrouwen
Huis (or alms house, as we say) with white walls and a very pretty
tower; quiet, pleasant streets; and on its outskirts a fine wood
called the Alkmaarder Hout.

In the Museum, which is not too interesting, is a picture of the
siege of Alkmaar, an episode of which the town has every right to
be proud. It was the point of attack by the Duke of Alva and his son
after the conquest of Haarlem--that hollow victory for Spain which was
more costly than many defeats. Philip had issued a decree threatening
the total depopulation of Holland unless its cities submitted to
the charms of his attractive religion. The citizens of Alkmaar were
the first to defy this proclamation. Once again Motley comes to our
aid with his vivid narrative: "The Spaniards advanced, burned the
village of Egmont to the ground as soon as the patriots had left it,
and on the 21st of August Don Frederic, appearing before the walls,
proceeded formally to invest Alkmaar. In a few days this had been so
thoroughly accomplished, that, in Alva's language, 'it was impossible
for a sparrow to enter or go out of the city'. The odds were somewhat
unequal. Sixteen thousand veteran troops constituted the besieging
force. Within the city were a garrison of _eight hundred_ soldiers,
together with _thirteen hundred_ burghers, capable of bearing
arms. The rest of the population consisted of a very few refugees,
besides the women and children. Two thousand one hundred able-bodied
men, of whom only about one-third were soldiers, to resist sixteen
thousand regulars!

"Nor was there any doubt as to the fate which was reserved for them,
should they succumb. The Duke was vociferous at the ingratitude
with which his _clemency_ had hith