ple in size and black
and white in hue. The only creatures that one sees from the carriage
windows on the railway journey are cows in the fields and plovers above
them. Now and then a man in his blue linen coat, now and then a heron;
but cows always and plovers always. Never a bullock. The meadows of
Holland are a female republic. Perkin Middlewick (in _Our Boys_)
had made so much money out of pork that whenever he met a pig he
was tempted to raise his hat; the Dutch, especially of North Holland
and Friesland, should do equal homage to their friend the cow. Edam
acknowledges the obligation in her municipal escutcheon.

Stavoren may be dull and unalluring, but not so Hindeloopen,
the third station on the railway to Leeuwarden, where we shall
stay. At Hindeloopen the journey should be broken for two or three
hours. Should, nay must. Hindeloopen (which means stag hunt) has been
called the Museum of Holland. All that is most picturesque in Dutch
furniture and costume comes from this little town--or professes to do
so, for the manufacture of spurious Hindeloopen cradles and stoofjes,
chairs and cupboards, is probably a recognised industry.

In the museum at Leeuwarden are two rooms arranged and furnished
exactly in the genuine Hindeloopen manner, and they are exceedingly
charming and gay. The smaller of the two has the ordinary blue and
white Dutch tiles, with scriptural or other subjects, around the
walls to the height of six feet; above them are pure white tiles, to
the ceiling, with an occasional delicate blue pattern. The floor is
of red and brown tiles. All the furniture is painted very gaily upon
a cream or white background--with a gaiety that has a touch of the
Orient in it. The bed is hidden behind painted woodwork in the wall,
like a berth, and is gained by a little flight of movable steps,
also radiant. I never saw so happy a room. On the wall is a cabinet
of curios and silver ornaments.

The larger room is similiar but more costly. On the wall are fine
Delft plates, and seated at the table are wax Hindeloopeners: a man
with a clay pipe and tobacco box, wearing a long flowered waistcoat,
a crossed white neckcloth and black coat and hat--not unlike a Quaker
in festival attire; and his neat and very picturesque women folk
are around him. In the cradle, enshrined in ornamentations, is a
Hindeloopen baby. More old silver and shining brass here and there,
and the same resolute cheerfulness of colouring everywhere. So