den--although, as M. Havard
says, what useful purpose a two-handed sword can serve to an admiral
on a small ship baffles reflection.

Bolsward, Sneek's neighbour, is another amphibious town, with a very
charming stadhuis in red and white, crowned by an Oriental bell
tower completely out of keeping with the modern Frisian who hears
its voice. This constant occurrence of Oriental freakishness in
the architecture of Dutch towns, in contrast with Dutch occidental
four-square simplicity and plainness of character, is an effect to
which one never quite grows accustomed.

Bolsward's church, which is paved with tomb-stones, among them
some very rich ones in high relief--too high for the comfort of the
desecrating foot--has a fine carved pulpit, some oak stalls of great
antiquity and an imposing bell tower.

It is claimed that the Frisians were the first Europeans to smoke
pipes. Whether or not that is the case, the Dutch are now the greatest
smokers. Recent statistics show that whereas the annual consumption of
tobacco by every inhabitant of Great Britain and Ireland is 1.34 lb.,
and of Germany 3 lb., that of the Dutch is 7 lb. Putting the smoking
population at 30 per cent. of the total--allowing thus for women,
children and non-smokers--this means that every Dutch smoker consumes
about eight ounces of tobacco a week, or a little more than an ounce
a day.

I excepted women and children, but that is wrong. The boys smoke
too--sometimes pipes, oftenest cigars. At a music hall at The Hague I
watched a contest in generosity between two friends in a family party
as to which should supply a small boy in sailor suit, evidently the
son of the host, with a cigar. Both won.

Fell, writing in 1801, says that the Dutch, although smoke dried, were
not then smoking so much as they had done twenty years before. The
Dutchmen, he says, "of the lower classes of society, and not a few in
the higher walks of life, carry in their pockets the whole apparatus
which is necessary for smoking:--a box of enormous size, which
frequently contains half a pound of tobacco; a pipe of clay or ivory,
according to the fancy or wealth of the possessor; if the latter,
instruments to clean it; a pricker to remove obstructions from the tube
of the pipe; a cover of brass wire for the bowl, to prevent the ashes
or sparks of the tobacco from flying out; and sometimes a tinderbox,
or bottle of phosphorus, to procure fire, in case none is at hand.

"The excuse of