have seen, however, little
scenes of cattle by Potter which were attractive as well as masterly.

Sir William Temple, in his _Observations upon the United Provinces_
gives a very human page to this old town: "Among the many and various
hospitals, that are in every man's curiosity and talk that travels
their country, I was affected with none more than that of the aged
seamen at Enchuysen, which is contrived, finished, and ordered,
as if it were done with a kind intention of some well-natured man,
that those, who had passed their whole lives in the hardships and
incommodities of the sea, should find a retreat stored with all
the eases and conveniences that old age is capable of feeling and
enjoying. And here I met with the only rich man that ever I saw in
my life: for one of these old seamen entertaining me a good while
with the plain stories of his fifty years' voyages and adventures,
while I was viewing their hospital, and the church adjoining, I gave
him, at parting, a piece of their coin about the value of a crown:
he took it smiling, and offered it me again; but, when I refused
it, he asked me, What he should do with money? for all, that ever
they wanted, was provided for them at their house. I left him to
overcome his modesty as he could; but a servant, coming after me,
saw him give it to a little girl that opened the church door, as she
passed by him: which made me reflect upon the fantastic calculation
of riches and poverty that is current in the world, by which a man,
that wants a million, is a Prince; he, that wants but a groat, is a
beggar; and this a poor man, that wanted nothing at all."

Hoorn's Harbour Tower, as I have said, has a charm beyond description;
but Enkhuisen's--known as the Dromedary--is unwieldly and plain. It
has, however, this advantage over Hoorn's, its bells are very
beautiful. One sees the Dromedary for some miles on the voyage to
Stavoren and Friesland.

Chapter XV

Friesland: Stavoren to Leeuwarden

Enkhuisen to Stavoren--Draining the Zuyder
Zee--The widow and the sandbank--Frisian births and
courtships--Hindeloopen--Quaint rooms and houses--A
pious pun--Biers for all trades--Sneek--Barge life--Two
giants--Bolsward--The cow--A digression on the weed.

The traveller from Amsterdam enters Free Frisia at Stavoren, once
the home of kings and now a mere haven. A little steamer carries
the passengers from Enkhuisen, while the cattle trucks and vans of
merchand