and the monument of Charles van
Egmont, Duke of Guelders. I had grown tired of architecture: it seemed
goodlier to watch the shipping on the river, which at Arnheim may be
called the Rhine without hesitation. All the traffic to Cologne must
pass the town. Hitherto one had had qualms about the use of the word,
having seen the Rhine under various aliases in so many places. The
Maas at Rotterdam is a mouth of the Rhine; but before it can become
the Rhine proper it becomes the Lek, What is called the true mouth of
the Rhine is at Katwyk. At Dordrecht again is another of the Rhine's
mouths, the Waal, which runs into the old Maas and then into the
sea. The Yssel, still another mouth of the Rhine, which I saw at
Kampen on its way into the Zuyder Zee, breaks away from the parent
river just below Arnheim. As a matter of fact all Holland is on the
Rhine, but the word must be used with care.

If one would study Dutch romantic scenery I think Nymwegen on the whole
a better town to stay in than Arnheim. It is simpler in itself, richer
in historic associations, and the country in the immediate east is
very well worth exploring--hill and valley and pine woods, with quaint
villages here and there; and, for the comfortable, a favourite hotel
at Berg en Daal from which great stretches of the Rhine may be seen.

To see Nymwegen itself to greater advantage, with its massed houses
and towers presenting a solid front, one must go over the iron bridge
to Lent and then look back across the river. At all times the old
town wears from this point of view an interesting and romantic air,
but never so much as at evening.

Some versions of "Lohengrin" set the story at Nymwegen; but the
Lohengrin monument is at Kleef, a few miles above the confluence of
the Rhine and the Waal, the river on which Nymwegen stands.

Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, who was at Nymwegen in 1716, drew an odd
comparison between that town and the English town of Nottingham. If
Edinburgh is the modern Athens there is no reason why Nottingham
should not be the English Nymwegen. Lady Mary writes to her friend
Sarah Chiswell: "If you were with me in this town, you would be ready
to expect to receive visits from your Nottingham friends. No two
places were ever more resembling; one has but to give the Maese the
name of the Trent, and there is no distinguishing the prospects--the
houses, like those of Nottingham, built one above another, and are
intermixed in the same manner with tre