nown as Europa Point, just outside the gates of
the city proper on the seaward side. These gardens being upon a sloping
hill-side are terraced, or divided into three plains, about which are
planted, with regularity, a variety of fine and thrifty trees, as well
as many beautiful flowers, the whole forming a charming Alameda. The
broad graveled paths are bordered by sweet-scented geraniums, the
scarlet and pink growing wild; verbenas, coronella, and roses of many
species, mingle artistically with the statues and fountains interspersed
about the grounds. To all of this, just across a stretch of blue water,
Africa forms a background. The military band plays here once or twice
each week, adding to the natural attractions of the spot; but there is
such an almost entire absence of social life, or refined society at the
rock, that we imagine few people, except children and nurses, improve
the advantages of the Alameda. A walk through the principal street,
known as Waterport Street, lined with low drinking places, taverns, or
lodging-houses, junk stores, and cigar shops, would not lead one to
expect the population to be of the sort to appreciate good music, or to
enjoy a quiet promenade in well-kept grounds. Of course there are
exceptions to this deduction, and there are a few delightful people,
appreciative and cultured, at Gibraltar; but it must seem like being
buried alive to make one's residence in such an unattractive place.

Through the kind assistance of the American Consul we obtained a special
permit to visit the fortifications, particularly of that portion which
forms the lofty and impregnable citadel. It is difficult to decide in
this most remarkable fortress whether nature or art has done the most to
render it what it seems absolutely to be, impregnable,--the strongest
citadel in the world. The improvements in modern gunnery have lately
caused important additions and alterations to be made. A hundred-ton gun
was landed fresh from England while we were at the rock. One natural
cave which was visited, in the system of fortified apartments, with
port-holes commanding a broad sweep, was large enough to contain a
regiment of soldiers; and the entire rock, fifteen hundred feet high,
seems honey-combed with small connected caves, supplied with cannon
commanding all approaches, by land or sea. We asked the officer who
accompanied us how it would be possible for men to work these heavy guns
in such circumscribed space as chara